How does a storm's approach influence mountain safety decisions?

Monitoring Weather Changes

When a storm approaches, it’s essential to monitor weather forecasts and changes in atmospheric conditions. Pay attention to increasing wind speeds, dropping temperatures, and decreasing visibility. These indicators signal that a storm is closing in and that conditions will deteriorate rapidly. Aim to descend to lower elevations before nightfall, ideally 1,000 to 2,000 feet below the storm’s expected reach. This reduces the risk of altitude sickness, which can be severe at high elevations.

Avoiding Steep Terrain

As storms approach, steep terrain becomes increasingly hazardous. The risk of crevasse falls and rockfall accidents increases as the ground becomes more unstable. If you’re on a glacier, avoid crossing crevasses, and if possible, wait for the storm to pass before resuming your ascent. If you must navigate steep terrain, use ropes and harnesses to secure yourself to the rock or ice. Aim for a slope angle of less than 30 degrees to minimize the risk of falling.

Crevasse Detection and Avoidance

Crevasses are a significant hazard during a storm, as reduced visibility and increased snowfall make them harder to detect. Use a probe or staff to detect crevasses, and always assume that a crevasse exists in areas with visible cracks or signs of recent glacier movement. If you’re traveling on a glacier, stay in the center of the serac, where the snow is more stable, and avoid crossing narrow bridges of snow or ice. If you do encounter a crevasse, use a rope and harness to safely cross it, and always keep a secure anchor point in place.