Best Practices for Traversing Glacial Crevasses?

Assessing the Terrain

When traversing glacial crevasses, assess the terrain carefully before proceeding. Look for signs of recent crevasses, such as recent calving or changes in the ice slope. Use a crevasse detection tool, such as a probe or a pole, to scan the ice surface for potential crevasses. Take note of the terrain’s topography, including any steep slopes, seracs, or overhanging ice.

Navigation and Anchors

When navigating through a glacial crevasse field, use anchors and anchor systems to secure the rope and prevent falls. Install anchors at regular intervals, spaced about 10-15 meters apart, and use a minimum of three anchors per rope length. Use a combination of ice screws, pitons, and anchors to secure the rope, and always check the anchors for stability before proceeding. When crossing narrow crevasses, use a short rope and a tight harness to minimize swing and prevent falls.

Rescue Techniques

In the event of a fall into a crevasse, a well-planned rescue can be the difference between life and death. Use a crevasse rescue pulley system to stabilize the rope and bring the victim to safety, working in a team of at least three people. Always have a backup plan in place, including a second rope and a means of communication with the team. In cases where the crevasse is too deep or too wide to rescue, use a self-arrest technique to stabilize the rope and prevent the victim from falling further.