Quick Answer
When traversing glaciers, it's essential to stay alert, use proper equipment, and follow established safety protocols to avoid accidents. Glacier crevasses can be invisible, so stay close to a guide or experienced partner. Familiarize yourself with crevasse rescue techniques in case of an emergency.
Assessing Terrain and Crevasses
When approaching a glacier, look for signs of crevasses, such as changes in ice color, cracks, or areas where the ice is more fragile. Use a rope and harness to secure yourself and your team, and consider using a crevasse sensor or probe to detect hidden crevasses. On steep terrain, space your anchors 10-15 feet apart to ensure a safe traverse.
Crevasses Rescue Techniques
In the event of a crevasse fall, stay calm and assess the situation. If you’re within 10-15 feet of the edge, you may be able to self-arrest by digging your ice axe into the snow and using your body weight to pull yourself back up. If you’re further away, use a rope to create a belay, then carefully lower yourself down and assess the crevasse for an escape route or anchor points. Consider using a pulley system to rescue a fallen team member, with a minimum ratio of 2:1.
Preventing Falls
To prevent falls in the first place, stay on the glacier’s centerline, avoid over-exposure, and use a rope to secure yourself and your team. When crossing narrow sections, keep your weight centered and use your ice axe to probe the ice ahead. Always keep your harness and rope properly secured, and carry a first aid kit and emergency shelter in case of an accident.
Find more answers
Browse the full Q&A library by topic, or jump back to the topic this question belongs to.