Is The Figure-Eight Knot Ideal For Rappelling?

Knot Performance

The Figure-Eight Knot belongs to the family of knots that can jam when subjected to heavy loads or when the rope is pulled in the opposite direction. This characteristic makes it unsuitable for rappelling, where the rope is being pulled downwards under the weight of the climber. A jammed knot can lead to equipment failure, serious injury, or even death.

Rappelling Knots

In climbing and rappelling, a reliable knot is essential for safety. The Reverso figure eight, also known as the “quickdraw” knot, and the figure eight on a bight are more suitable for rappelling. These knots are designed to be easily released with a pull on the working end, eliminating the risk of jamming. When using a Reverso figure eight, keep the working end of the rope on the right side of the knot, and ensure it is properly seated in the loop.

Best Practices

To create a secure and reliable rappelling knot, follow these tips: Use a dedicated rappelling rope with a minimum diameter of 10mm, and ensure the knot is tied at least 1.5 meters above the harness attachment point. Always check the knot before descending, and make sure it is properly seated and seated in the loop. Regularly inspect and maintain your rope and equipment to prevent damage or wear.