Item: Nomad PLUS Double View External Air Wood Burning Tent Stove — L size (WN-PL)
Rating: 4.8
Author: Greg

Winnerwell Nomad PLUS Double View External Air Review — The Stove That Stops Breathing Your Tent

Our Rating

4.8 / 5 ★★★★☆

Current Price

A$799.95 (L size) · A$699.95 (M size)

Buy on Winnerwell →

Model: Nomad PLUS Double View External Air — L size (WN-PL)
Material: AISI 304 stainless steel
Firebox: 440 × 250 × 250 mm (17.3 × 9.8 × 9.8 in) — 27.5 L
Assembled: 600 × 645 × 2615 mm (23.6 × 25.4 × 103 in)

Pros

The external air intake is the real feature — a sealed duct feeds combustion air from outside the tent, so the fire is not consuming the air you are breathing or the air you just paid firewood to heat
AISI 304 stainless throughout, in a body that arrives dead flat, square and free of weld spatter — this is properly made metalwork, not a folded box
Two heat-resistant glass windows, front and side, and the difference that makes to a camp at night is out of all proportion to the engineering involved
27.5 litres of firebox on the L size — 82 percent more than the M — which is what lets it hold a bed of coals rather than needing feeding every twenty minutes
Secondary combustion holes across the upper firebox burn off gases that would otherwise leave as smoke, which means more heat from the same wood and less creosote in the pipe
Spark arrestor, grate, ash scraper and the external air pipe are all in the box — nothing essential is an upsell

Cons

17.8 kg for the L size, and it is by far the heaviest thing in a hot-tent kit — the stove alone outweighs the tent it heats by more than five to one
The dedicated heat shield is required for use over a tent groundsheet and is sold separately — the danger notice in the box says so plainly, and the shield is not in the box
Around eight hundred dollars before you have bought a tent, which puts the whole setup well past most people's first winter-camping budget
Stainless discolours to a bronze patina after the first burn — Winnerwell says so on the carton, it is not corrosion, but it will never look showroom-new again
The glass needs wiping to stay clear, and a stove run too cool will fog both windows within a session

There is a problem at the heart of hot tenting that most stove reviews never name. A wood fire needs oxygen, and in a sealed tent the only oxygen available is the oxygen the occupants are breathing. Worse, the air a stove pulls into the firebox and sends up the chimney is warm air — air the same stove just spent firewood heating. A conventional tent stove is, in a small way, competing with itself and with you.

The Winnerwell Nomad PLUS Double View External Air is built around fixing exactly that. A sealed duct runs from the firebox out through the tent wall, so the fire draws cold air from outside and never touches the air inside. It is not a marketing feature. It is the difference between a stove that heats a shelter and a stove that heats a shelter while quietly emptying it of oxygen.

This review covers the L size, which is what came out of the carton: 17.8 kg of AISI 304 stainless, a 27.5-litre firebox, two windows, secondary combustion, and about eight hundred dollars.

The Winnerwell Nomad PLUS stainless tent stove burning with flames visible through its long side window, chimney rising, the coyote-brown tent wall behind — The Nomad PLUS Double View, lit, beside the tent it was heating. The long side window is the "double view" half of the name — most tent stoves give you one window at the door end, if any.

At a glance · L size

MaterialAISI 304 stainless

Firebox27.5 L

Weight17.8 kg (39.2 lb)

Assembled height2615 mm (103 in)

Packed600 × 315 × 325 mm

ChimneyØ89 mm · 2230 mm

WindowsTwo (front + side)

AirSealed external intake

PriceA$799.95

In the Box

The carton tells you the material before you open it, which is a good sign about a company’s priorities.

A red sticker on the olive-green carton reading High Quality AISI304 Stainless Steel, over a printed pine forest silhouette — The sticker on the corner of the carton: **High Quality · AISI304 Stainless Steel**. 304 is the grade that resists the corrosion a wood fire produces; cheaper stoves use 201, or plain steel with paint.

The antler mark on the box, and beneath it a paragraph most makers would never print: "After the first burning, stainless steel stove will begin to acquire a nice patina color… this change in color is not corrosion and is normal."

Printed copy on the carton describing the Nomad PLUS Double View External Air L-sized wood burning stove and its secondary combustion system — The full name in print — **Nomad PLUS Double View External Air L-sized** — and the claim underneath: *"The secondary combustion system helps burn off waste gases and reduce emissions."*

The moulded plastic carry handle set into the top of the printed carton — A moulded carry handle in the carton. At 17.8 kg plus packaging, that handle earns its place before the stove is even open.

The opened carton showing white foam blocks and a coiled silver flexible external air hose alongside the stainless flue collar — Opened. The coiled silver duct is the **external air intake pipe** — the component the whole product is named for, and it ships in the box rather than as an accessory.

The stove top with its flue collar and wire side rack, sitting over a stack of multilingual printed safety sheets — The stove, the grate, the side rack and a thick stack of safety literature in several languages. Winnerwell does not treat the paperwork as an afterthought.

A printed safety sheet with a red DANGER heading reading that the dedicated heat shield must be installed before using Nomad M and L series stoves inside a tent with a groundsheet — **Read this one before you buy.** *"DANGER: The dedicated heat shield must be installed before using Winnerwell® Nomad M & L Series Stoves inside a tent with a groundsheet."* The heat shield is **not in the box** and is bought separately — see the section below.

A page of the manual showing applicable stove models and several red DANGER paragraphs about installing the external air intake pipe correctly — The external-air pages of the manual, and they are all DANGER-flagged: install the pipe to draw genuinely from outside, keep the run as straight as possible, check it for blockage, and in snow raise the inlet so it cannot be buried.

A manual spread of pictogram safety diagrams covering stove operation, ventilation, moving the stove and never leaving it unattended — The pictogram spread. Among them: keep a minimum opening for ventilation even with external air fitted, never move the stove while it is burning, check the spark arrestor and flue for blockage, and never leave the fire unattended.

Design and Build

The metalwork

This is the part that separates a five-hundred-dollar stove from a hundred-dollar one, and it shows immediately.

The stove from above showing the flat brushed stainless top plate, the swaged flue collar, and the wire side rack folded across it — The top plate. Flat, brushed, and with the flue collar **swaged** up out of the sheet rather than welded on as a separate ring — one less joint to leak or crack.

Close-up of the flue collar rising from the top plate with the metal drawn smoothly up into the cylinder — The collar close up. Look where it meets the plate: the steel curves into the cylinder in one continuous surface. That is a forming operation, not a fabrication shortcut.

The mark embossed into the steel rather than printed or etched. It will still be there in twenty years of fires.

The same mark in raking light, showing the depth of the stamping and the brushed grain running across it.

Close-up of the stove body corner showing the folded return and the seam running down the edge — A body corner. The sheet is folded into a return along the edge rather than butted and welded — stiffer, and there is no bead of spatter anywhere on this stove.

A cast stainless bracket on the stove body holding the wire side rack, secured with two bolts — The side rack pivots in a machined bracket on two bolts. Not a folded tab — an actual bracket.

The same rack bracket photographed from the side showing the pivot and the two bolt heads — From the side. The rack swings down flat against the body for packing and locks out level for use.

Macro of the bracket where it meets the stove wall, showing the clean fit of the joint — Macro on the joint. The fit between bracket and body is tight enough that there is no visible light through it.

The doors, the glass and the handles

The corner of the stove door showing the glass panel retained by a bolted stainless bar over a white braided ceramic rope gasket — The door corner, and the detail that matters most on any airtight stove: a **braided ceramic rope gasket** seating the glass, held by a bolted retaining bar. That gasket is what makes the external air system work — without a sealed door the stove just breathes the tent anyway.

The stove with its front door swung open, the glass panel in the door and the wire rack folded above — The front door open. The hinge runs the full height and the door shuts on the gasket with an audible seat rather than a rattle.

The coiled stainless spring handle on the stove door, photographed against a dark background — The door handle is a **coiled spring** — the traditional stove solution, and still the right one. The coil is a poor conductor and stays cool enough to grip when the body is too hot to touch.

The spring handle beside the flat cam latch that clamps the door shut — Handle and cam latch together. The latch is a flat plate that rotates over a lip and pulls the door onto the gasket.

Close-up of the door handle linkage where the spring coil meets the latch shaft — The linkage close. Every fastener on this stove is stainless too — nothing is going to rust and seize.

Inside the firebox

Looking into the empty firebox through the open door, showing the removable grate sitting above the floor — The firebox with the grate in. The grate lifts the fire off the floor so air reaches it from below and ash falls clear — the reason a stove holds a bed of coals instead of smothering itself.

Inside the top of the firebox showing a row of small drilled holes along the upper wall for secondary combustion air — The row of small holes along the upper firebox wall. That is the **secondary combustion** system: preheated air injected above the fire, igniting the gases that would otherwise leave up the chimney as smoke.

A round stainless air control dial on the stove marked OFF at one end of its travel — The air control, marked **OFF** at the closed end. This is the only burn-rate control on the stove and it is the one you learn to read the fire through the glass with.

The circular external air intake port on the side of the stove body with its collar for the flexible duct — The **external air intake port** on the body, collared for the flexible duct. This is the feature. Everything else on this stove exists on other stoves.

One of the folding stainless legs deployed beneath the stove body — A folding leg. Four of these swing out to lift the firebox clear of the ground — and fold flat into the body for packing.

A riveted stainless warning plate on the stove reading Use dry wood only, please watch the burning stove all the time, never leave the stove alone when the fire is still burning — Riveted to the stove itself, not stuck on: *"Use dry wood only! Please watch the burning stove all the time! NEVER leave the stove alone when the fire is still burning!"* A permanent plate rather than a peel-off sticker is the correct decision.

The chimney and spark arrestor

The perforated mesh spark arrestor standing beside the smooth stainless chimney sections on a wooden floor — The **spark arrestor** — Ø89 × 316 mm of stainless mesh — beside the pipe sections. On a nylon tent this is not an accessory, and it is included.

Five chimney sections standing on end showing how they nest one inside another — The five sections nest. Four at Ø89 mm and one at Ø85 mm, so the whole 2230 mm chimney telescopes into the space of one pipe.

Looking down into the flue collar on the stove top with the damper plate visible inside — Down into the collar. The pipe drops straight in — no clamps, no screws, no tools.

The complete stove kit laid out on a wooden floor: the stove body, five chimney sections, spark arrestor and the external air hose, with the Hunt and Live engraved plaque for scale — Everything, laid out. Body, five pipe sections, spark arrestor, external air duct — and the plaque for scale. This is the whole system, and every part of it came in the one carton.

The Numbers: M vs L

Winnerwell sells the Nomad PLUS Double View in two sizes, and the choice is not obvious from the names.

Spec	M size (WN-PVM)	L size (WN-PL)	Difference
Firebox	360 × 200 × 210 mm	440 × 250 × 250 mm	L holds 82% more
Firebox volume	15.1 L	27.5 L	+12.4 L
Weight	11.8 kg	17.8 kg	+6.0 kg
Assembled height	2120 mm	2615 mm	+495 mm of chimney
Packed	510 × 265 × 300 mm	600 × 315 × 325 mm	+50% packed volume
Chimney	Ø76 mm + Ø73 mm	Ø89 mm + Ø85 mm	Larger flue, stronger draw
Price	A$699.95	A$799.95	+A$100

Manufacturer specifications from Winnerwell's own product page. Firebox volumes calculated from the stated internal dimensions.

L size firebox

27.5

M size firebox

15.1

Firebox volume in litres, calculated from Winnerwell's stated internal dimensions. The L costs A$100 more and holds 82 percent more fire — which is the single number that should decide the size for most buyers.

That last figure is worth sitting with. A hundred dollars is roughly twelve percent more money for eighty-two percent more firebox, and firebox volume is what determines how long a stove holds heat between refuels. Unless you are carrying the stove on your back, the L is the better buy.

What a Hot-Tent Camp Actually Weighs

Here is the thing nobody tells you when you decide to try hot tenting: the stove is the camp. Everything else is a rounding error.

Nomad PLUS L

17.8

Nomad PLUS M

11.8

VEVOR YT-02 tent

3.1

Hults Bruk axe

0.96

Kilograms. Stove figures from Winnerwell; tent and axe figures from our own reviews of the VEVOR YT-02 and the Hults Bruk Dvärdala. A complete L-size hot-tent camp — shelter, stove and axe — comes to about 21.9 kg, and the stove is 81 percent of it.

This reframes the whole category. Hot tenting is not backpacking. It is a camp you drive to, or sled to, or carry a short distance and then stay put. Anyone planning to walk far with this should be looking at the M size, and should still expect the stove to dominate the load.

The External Air System

The stove set up inside the coyote-brown tent with its chimney rising through the stove jack and the silver air duct running out under the tent hem — The whole system installed in the VEVOR YT-02: stove inside, chimney up through the jack, and the silver duct running out under the hem to open air. Note the plywood and tarp under the legs — no groundsheet here, which is the only reason the heat shield was not mandatory.

The flexible silver external air duct emerging from under the tent wall onto the grass outside — The duct where it leaves the tent. Everything the fire burns comes through this pipe — which means the tent's own air is not being consumed, and cold outside air is not being pulled in through every gap to replace it.

The engineering here is simple and the consequence is not. On a conventional stove, every cubic metre of air that goes up the chimney has to be replaced by outside air leaking in around the door, the hem and the zip. That draught is why a hot tent can have a stove roaring and still have cold air pouring across the floor. Duct the combustion air from outside, seal the firebox, and the draught stops.

The second consequence is the safety one, and it is why we would pay the premium. A sealed stove is not competing with the occupants for oxygen. That does not make a carbon monoxide alarm optional — the manual still specifies a minimum ventilation opening, and so do we — but it removes the largest single mechanism by which a tent stove depletes the air in a shelter.

The stainless chimney rising through the pale flame-retardant stove jack panel in the tent canopy — The chimney through the tent's stove jack. The pipe stands vertical through the opening rather than leaning on one edge — which is how it should be, and is a function of pitching the tent taut.

Close-up of the tent's stove jack fabric drawn snug around the stainless chimney pipe — The jack drawn in around the pipe. The flame-retardant panel handles the contact zone; the pipe carries the heat away above it.

The chimney and its mesh spark arrestor standing well clear above the tent peak, blueberry field and a tractor beyond — Above the peak, with the spark arrestor on top. Height is draw — 2615 mm of assembled stack is what makes this stove pull properly instead of smoking back into the tent.

The pitched tent from outside with the chimney rising from the stove jack panel on the canopy — From outside. The stove sits low inside, so the pipe passes through the canopy well above head height and clears the peak.

The stove set up on plywood at the edge of the tent with its chimney rising and the wire rack extended — Set up at the tent wall on a plywood pad. Note the side rack extended — it is a drying rail for gloves and socks, which in a wet camp matters more than it sounds.

Lighting It

The stove door standing open on the empty grate, ready to be loaded — Door open on an empty grate. The full-width opening is generous enough to load splits without threading them in at an angle.

A pile of split kindling and a heap of pale wood shavings on the ground — Kindling and shavings. The warning plate says dry wood only, and a stove with a sealed air supply is less forgiving of wet fuel than an open one — it cannot simply pull more air to compensate.

The Hults Bruk Dvärdala hunting axe in its leather sheath resting across the stove's side rack — The Hults Bruk Dvärdala laid across the rack. The two tools are a matched pair in practice — one produces what the other consumes.

First flames visible through the front glass of the stove as the shavings catch — Catching. This is the moment the double glass earns its keep — you can see whether the fire is taking without opening the door and losing the draw.

The fire established on the grate seen through the stove's glass, flames rising around split kindling — Established. From here the air dial does the work — the fire is managed through the glass rather than by opening the door and guessing.

Flames filling the long side window of the stove — The side window at full burn. This is the pane most tent stoves do not have, and it is the one you actually see from a cot.

The front door window showing an established fire on the grate with the latch and spring handle in frame — The front pane, with the latch and spring handle in shot. Both windows are heat-resistant glass in the same gasketed frames.

The stove from an angle showing fire visible simultaneously through both the front and the side glass — Both at once, from the corner. **That** is what "Double View" means, and it is the whole argument for the model.

The burning stove with a pile of split wood beside it on a tarp — Burning, with the woodpile alongside. The 27.5-litre box takes splits long enough that you are not constantly cutting to length.

A bed of embers and flame on the grate seen through the open door — A bed of coals on the grate — the state you are managing toward. Air from below through the grate, secondary air from above, and the fire settles into steady output.

Flame filling the entire side glass panel of the stove — Side glass at full output. The glass stays clear at this burn rate; run a stove cool and both panes fog within an hour.

The fire viewed through the front door glass with the wire rack above — Through the front. The rack sits above and to the side, out of the radiant path.

A single split of wood burning on the grate seen through the glass — One split, burning down. A firebox this size will hold a single large split for a long time with the air backed off.

The stove top plate and chimney base photographed while the stove is running, with the tent behind — The top plate with the fire going. This surface is the cooktop — flat, wide, and the reason a tent stove replaces a camp stove rather than supplementing it.

The external air duct at the stove's intake port with flames visible through the glass beside it — The duct doing its job while the fire runs. Every bit of oxygen in those flames came from outside the tent.

View into the pitched tent with the stove burning just inside the doorway and the external air duct running out across the grass — The camp working: shelter, heat, and the air duct running out to the grass. This is what the eight hundred dollars buys — not a fire, but a fire that does not fight the tent it is in.

Running It — Secondary Combustion and the Air Dial

A sealed stove is operated differently from an open one, and this is the part the manual is thinnest on.

Secondary combustion is why the air dial matters more here. Wood does not burn in one step. It first gives off flammable gases, and on a poorly run stove those gases go straight up the chimney as smoke — visible energy leaving the building, and creosote plating the inside of the flue on the way. The row of holes across the upper firebox injects preheated air above the fire so those gases ignite instead. When it is working you see a second layer of flame licking along the top of the firebox, above and separate from the wood, and the smoke leaving the spark arrestor thins out to almost nothing.

Getting there requires the stove to be hot. A fire run cool and choked never reaches secondary ignition, which is why a stove damped right down to make fuel last is not the economy it appears to be — you burn more wood, foul the flue faster, and fog the glass. Winnerwell’s manual gives an optimal operating band and warns in both directions: run it too cool and combustion is incomplete; run it too hot and you damage the stove.

The practical sequence is to open the air fully, build a hot fire on kindling, let the box come up to temperature with a couple of small splits, and only then back the dial off to hold it. Manage from there by what the glass shows rather than by the dial position — clear glass and lively flame means it is running clean; lazy orange flame and greying panes means it needs more air.

On fuel: the warning plate says dry wood only and a sealed stove means it. An open stove compensates for wet fuel by pulling more air through every gap; this one cannot, because there are no gaps. Wet wood in a sealed firebox produces a smouldering, smoking, glass-blackening fire that never reaches secondary combustion.

A heap of pale wood shavings and split kindling on a tarp beside the open stove door — Shavings and fine kindling ready at the door. Getting a sealed stove hot quickly is worth more than saving fuel at the start — the whole burn runs cleaner off a fast, hot beginning.

The long side window filled with tall flame at full burn rate, the stove body brightly lit — Full burn through the side glass. Flame reaching up and along the top of the box like this is what secondary combustion looks like from outside — and the glass staying clear is the tell that it is working.

What the “PLUS” Actually Adds

Winnerwell sells several Nomad variants and the naming does not make the differences obvious. Here is what the three feature words on this one mean in practice.

Feature	What it is	Why it matters
External Air	Sealed intake port and flexible duct running outside the shelter	The fire stops consuming tent air, and the draught of cold replacement air through every gap stops with it
Double View	Heat-resistant glass in the front door and the long side panel	You can read the fire from a cot without opening the door and losing the draw
PLUS / secondary combustion	Row of preheated-air holes across the upper firebox	Burns the gases that would otherwise leave as smoke — more heat per split, less creosote in the flue

Feature descriptions from Winnerwell's product page and printed carton; the practical consequences are our own reading of the design as photographed above.

The Cooktop

A polished stainless whistling kettle sitting on the stove's top plate with the chimney rising behind — The Le Creuset whistling kettle on the top plate. The plate is flat and wide enough to take a kettle and a pan at once, and this is the practical argument for a stove over a heater.

The kettle heating on the stove with the tent wall and a pack visible behind — Heating, beside the tent. Water on the stove is free — the fire is burning anyway.

The kettle beside the base of the chimney on the stove top, fire visible through the glass below — Kettle and chimney base together. Winnerwell's own carton warns that the top will deform slightly with heat and cookware may wobble a little — worth knowing, and it is honest of them to print it.

The stove and kettle at the end of the day, fire burning low behind the glass — End of the day. The stainless has already started to take on the bronze patina the carton warned about — which is, as they said, not corrosion.

The Heat Shield You Have to Buy Separately

This is the review’s real criticism and it deserves its own heading, because it is a safety item that is not in the box.

The printed DANGER notice packed with the stove reads: “The dedicated heat shield must be installed before using Winnerwell® Nomad M & L Series Stoves inside a tent with a groundsheet. Using the stove without the heat shield can cause the tent groundsheet to overheat, soften, or become damaged. Flammable materials such as dry leaves, grass, or debris under the tent may also ignite, creating a fire hazard.”

That is unambiguous, and the shield is a separate purchase. In our photographs the stove is standing on plywood over a tarp in a tent that has no groundsheet at all — which is the one configuration where the requirement does not bite. Anyone pairing this stove with a floored tent needs to budget for the shield at the same time as the stove, and Winnerwell should arguably include it.

To their credit, the warning is prominent, printed in several languages, and sits on the top of the literature stack rather than on page eleven.

Pros and Cons (the Honest Version)

What it does exceptionally well. The external air system solves a real and underdiscussed problem, and it is executed properly — a sealed door on a ceramic rope gasket, a collared intake, and a duct in the box. The metalwork is genuinely good: 304 stainless, formed rather than fabricated where it counts, embossed marks, machined brackets, stainless fasteners throughout. Two windows instead of one changes how a camp feels at night far more than the spec sheet suggests. And the kit is complete — spark arrestor, grate, scraper and duct all included, so the stove works out of the box.

Where it falls short. It weighs 17.8 kg and dominates any load it is part of. The heat shield is a mandatory safety item for floored tents and is not included. It costs around eight hundred dollars before you have bought anything to put it in. And the stainless will discolour permanently after the first fire — disclosed, harmless, but a surprise to anyone who bought it for the finish.

How It Compares

vs. a budget stainless tent stove (~$150–250). The obvious comparison, and the honest answer is that a cheap stove will also heat a tent. What it will not do is seal, and it will not draw its air from outside. It will also be thinner steel that warps, plain hinges that loosen, and often no spark arrestor. For occasional use in mild conditions the gap is tolerable; for a stove that lives in a winter camp it is not.

vs. the Nomad PLUS M size (A$699.95). Six kilograms lighter and 12.4 litres smaller in the firebox for A$100 less. The M is the right answer if the stove has to be carried any distance; the L is the right answer for everyone else, and the price gap is small enough that firebox size should decide it.

vs. a titanium packable stove (~$400–600). Genuinely light — often under 3 kg — and the correct choice for anyone walking in. Titanium warps, has a much shorter service life under repeated heat cycling, rarely seals well enough for external air, and does not give you a flat cooktop. Different tool for a different trip.

Who Should Buy It

Buy it if you are building a hot-tent camp you will use for years rather than trying the idea once; if the camp is reached by vehicle, sled or a short carry; if you want a sealed stove that is not consuming the air in the shelter; if you want a stove that is also a cooktop and a drying rail; if you would rather buy one stove than replace a cheap one twice.

Don’t buy it if you are backpacking — 17.8 kg settles that. Don’t buy it before you have priced the heat shield alongside it if your tent has a floor. And don’t buy the L if the stove has to go anywhere on your back; buy the M.

Final Verdict

The Winnerwell Nomad PLUS Double View External Air is the most convincingly engineered piece of camp equipment we have put through this site. The build quality is visible in every photograph above — the swaged flue collar, the ceramic rope under the glass, the machined brackets, the embossed mark, the absence of a single bead of weld spatter anywhere on it. But the reason to buy it is not the metalwork. It is that this stove does not breathe your tent, and once you understand why that matters, going back to a stove that does is difficult.

The reservations are real. It is heavy, it is expensive, and the heat shield being a separate purchase for floored tents is a genuine miss on a product this considered. None of that changes the conclusion: pair it with a shelter and an axe and you have a winter camp that works, and this is the component of that camp you will still own in twenty years.

Rating: 4.8/5 Stars

Brands sometimes provide samples for review. Hunt & Live writes its honest opinion either way — gear that doesn’t earn its keep doesn’t get a recommendation.

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VEVOR YT-02 Hot Tent Review — A C$130 Stove-Ready Tipi, and What That Price Actually Buys

Winnerwell Nomad PLUS Double View External Air Review — The Stove That Stops Breathing Your Tent